Image credit:
Messe München GmbH
Exhibition of various fabrics at ISPO Munich 2024
Image credit:
Messe München GmbH
Sustainability/01/03/2025

Textiles for a sustainable future: insights from industry leaders ROICA and TENCEL

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The fashion and sports industry is at a turning point - and ROICA and TENCEL are leading the change. At ISPO Munich, the two industry leaders presented their pioneering technologies that redefine sustainability and performance. With solutions such as biodegradable stretch fibers and resource-saving materials, they show how the future of fashion and sportswear can be shaped sustainably.

The fashion and sportswear industries are undergoing a transformative revolution—driven by the urgent need for sustainability. But did you know that a garbage truck full of textiles is dumped in a landfill somewhere in the world every SECOND? This startling reality is fueling a new wave of innovation, where companies are no longer asking if they should go green but how fast they can get there.

Two industry leaders, ROICA by Asahi Kasei and TENCEL by Lenzing are leading this change with a partnership that merges cutting-edge science with a commitment to circularity. Their collaboration is more than a response to the sustainability crisis; it's a masterclass in reimagining textiles for a greener, more responsible future.

At ISPO Munich, ROICA and TENCEL showcased their groundbreaking innovations, offering practical solutions to some of the industry's most pressing challenges. From high-performance stretch fibers to biodegradable materials, their work isn't just reshaping products; it's reshaping possibilities.

Why Circularity Matters in Textiles?

Think about the last piece of clothing you threw away. Where did it end up? Chances are, it's still sitting in a nearby landfill, probably going to take at least hundreds of years (or even more) to decompose. The traditional "take, make, dispose" model of textile production has brought us to a breaking point with over 92 million tons of textile waste generated every year. Synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon, while durable, are major contributors to microplastic pollution.

This is where circular textiles come in. Designed to be reused, recycled, or naturally biodegraded, circular textiles address critical issues like waste reduction and resource efficiency. They offer a way to meet consumer demands for high-performance products without compromising the planet.

ROICA and TENCEL's partnership demonstrates that sustainable Innovation is not only possible but essential for the future of textiles. By combining advanced materials with a shared vision for sustainability, they're setting new benchmarks for what's possible in fashion and sportswear.

Exclusive Insights from ROICA and TENCEL's Collaboration

Here are some useful insights you definitely can't miss out on from ROICA and TENCEL's collaboration:

    01

    Redefining Stretch With ROICA V550

    If you've ever worn a piece of clothing that stretched to fit you perfectly, you've likely experienced the magic of elastane fibers. But traditional elastane has a downside: it doesn't biodegrade. Enter ROICA V550, a stretch fiber that does it all—and then some.

    ROICA V550 is a game-changer in the world of stretch fibers. Developed by Asahi Kasei, this premium elastane fiber is engineered for biodegradability. Verified under ISO 14855-1 conditions, it decomposes into water and carbon dioxide under microbial-active soil conditions, leaving no harmful residues. This Innovation earned it the prestigious Cradle-to-Cradle Gold certification for material health, making it a trailblazer in sustainable elastane.

    Hiroaki Shinohe, Brand Strategy Manager at ROICA, put it best: “Our philosophy goes beyond just offering stretch. We integrate sustainability and functionality to add real value to the market."
     

    Key features of ROICA V550: 

    • Biodegradability: Breaks down without leaving harmful residues.
    • Performance: Maintains the elasticity and durability required for sportswear.
    • Certifications: First elastane fiber to achieve Cradle-to-Cradle Gold certification.
    02

    Eco-Conscious Alternatives With ROICA EF

    For those who think recycled materials can't match the quality of virgin fibers, ROICA EF is here to change minds. Made from pre-consumer waste and certified under Oeko-Tex Standard 100, this recycled stretch fiber delivers on both sustainability and performance.
     

    Key features of ROICA EF: 

    • Recycled Content: Made from pre-consumer waste materials.
    • Sustainability: Meets high environmental and safety standards
    • Performance: Retains the stretch and resilience of traditional fibers.
    03

    Natural Solutions from TENCEL

    If ROICA is revolutionizing stretch, TENCEL is rewriting the playbook for softness and sustainability. As Lenzing's flagship product, TENCEL fibers are derived from responsibly sourced wood and are both biodegradable and compostable. Their closed-loop production process recycles over 99% of the solvents used, making them a gold standard for eco-friendly manufacturing.

    Carlo Covini, Italian Manager at Lenzing, emphasizes, “Our fibers begin in nature and return to nature, ensuring a closed-loop system that minimizes waste and maximizes performance.


    Key attributes of TENCEL fibers: 

    • Sustainability: Certified biodegradable in both soil and marine environments.
    • Versatility: Suitable for sportswear, yoga apparel, and intimate clothing.
    • Closed-loop production: Uses non-toxic solvents and recycles over 99% of water.

    Addressing Industry Challenges

    The progress in circular textiles is undoubtedly inspiring, but it’s not without hurdles. Transitioning from traditional to sustainable production methods demands more than just good intentions. It requires significant investment, time, and a collaborative effort across the entire supply chain. Manufacturers must ensure that biodegradable and recycled materials perform as well as conventional fibers in terms of durability and functionality.

    Moreover, educating consumers about the benefits of circular textiles remains critical. Awareness campaigns, transparent labeling, and consistent communication can help dispel misconceptions and create demand for sustainable products.

    As Hiroaki Shinohe emphasized, material Innovation is merely the starting point. He pointed out that achieving true impact in the industry requires collective action from all stakeholders, including brands, manufacturers, and consumers alike, reflecting the broader themes discussed during the event.

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    The Road Towards a Circular Wardrobe

    Imagine a future where your wardrobe consists entirely of garments that can either be reused, recycled, or naturally returned to the earth. This vision isn't far-fetched. 

    Companies like ROICA and TENCEL are leading the charge to make it a reality, one Innovation at a time.

    To achieve this, the industry must:

    • Adopt Circular Design Principles: Products should be designed with their entire lifecycle in mind.
    • Invest in Technology: Develop new materials and processes that support circularity.
    • Collaborate Globally: Partnerships across industries and borders are essential to scaling these solutions.
    • Inspire Action: Educate and engage stakeholders at every level to drive the adoption of circular practices.

    As Carlo Covini noted, "A truly circular wardrobe is built on innovation, partnership, and a commitment to sustainability."

    In practice: examples of cooperation between ROICA and TENCEL

    The true value of the ROICA and TENCEL collaboration lies in its applications. From yoga wear to swimwear and intimate apparel, these fabrics combine the elasticity of ROICA fibers with the natural touch and breathability of TENCEL fibers. 

    Here are some real-world applications showcasing the power of their partnership.

    • Yoga Time Collection: Italian fabric producer Maglificio Brugnoli developed a yoga apparel line that combines ROICA V550 and TENCEL fibers. The result? Fabrics that are as stretchy as they are sustainable.
    • Luxury Blends: Maglificio Maggia integrated ROICA and TENCEL fibers with cashmere to create ultra-soft, high-performance fabrics for premium markets.
    • Base Layers for Athletes: Maglificio Ripa leveraged this partnership to design base layers and second-skin fabrics ideal for professional athletes.

    These examples prove that sustainability doesn't have to come at the cost of style or performance. In fact, it can enhance both.

    The business case on circular textiles

    The partnership between ROICA and TENCEL offers invaluable lessons for B2B stakeholders. 

    Here's why their approach is a blueprint for success:

    1. Enhanced Brand Value
    In today's market, sustainability is a competitive edge. Brands that adopt circular textiles can:

    • Stand out in a crowded marketplace.
    • Build trust with eco-conscious consumers.
    • Align with global sustainability goals and regulations.

    2. Long-Term Cost Savings
    While initial investments in sustainable materials may be higher, they often result in significant cost savings over time. The long-term benefits include: 

    • Reduced waste and resource consumption.
    • Improved efficiency in production processes.
    • Lower environmental compliance costs.

    3. Market Opportunities
    ​​​​​​​The demand for sustainable fashion and sportswear is growing exponentially. Circular textiles open doors to:

    • New customer segments prioritizing eco-friendly products.
    • Partnerships with like-minded businesses and organizations.
    • Opportunities to lead in an emerging market trend.

    Key Takeaways for Industry Stakeholders

    Here are four actionable insights for businesses aiming to make a mark in sustainable textiles:

    1. Embrace Innovation: New technologies like ROICA V550, ROICA EF, and TENCEL fibers prove that it’s possible to blend sustainability with top-notch performance. By investing in innovative materials, brands can stay ahead in a competitive and eco-conscious market.
    2. Foster Collaboration: Change doesn’t happen in silos. Building strong partnerships across the supply chain, right from fiber producers to fabric manufacturers and brands, is important for driving meaningful progress.
    3. Educate Consumers: Consumers are increasingly interested in the stories behind their products. By being transparent about the benefits of sustainable textiles, businesses can build trust, loyalty, and a strong customer base.
    4. Complete Certification: Certifications like Cradle-to-Cradle and TÜV Austria provide consumers with the confidence that your products meet rigorous environmental and safety standards. They also make your brand stand out in a crowded market.
    Ausstellung von Stoffen auf der ISPO Munich
    Focus on sustainability: innovation, collaboration, education and certification - the building blocks for a sustainable textile industry.
    Image credit:
    Messe München GmbH

    The future of sustainable textiles

    ROICA and TENCEL’s partnership is more than just a collaboration; it is a call to action. Together, they are showing the world that textiles can be both sustainable and stylish without compromising on innovation. By embracing the principles of circularity, the textile industry is taking strides to meet the demands of a rapidly changing world.

    Giusy Bettoni, moderator at ISPO Munich, summed it up perfectly, "One plus one can make three, or even five, when you align toward common goals. This is just the beginning of our journey toward sustainable Innovation."

    As businesses, consumers, and innovators, it's time to ask ourselves: what role will we play in shaping the future of textiles? The answer starts here with circularity, responsibility, and a vision for a better tomorrow.